Carnival of Venice 2023: Program, Budget, and Best Accommodation 

It thrills the City of the Doges every year, the Carnival of Venice is one of the most colorful and festive in the world. What is its history? How does it take place and what information should you know before participating? Focus on this traditional event that turns Venice upside-down day and night.

A global event

Carnival in Venice

Every year, the Venice Carnival begins ten days before Ash Wednesday and always ends on Mardi Gras day. On the occasion of this interplanetary event, masks, costumes, bands, and parades, make the streets and squares of Venice vibrate and color under the amazed eyes of 3 million visitors.

Grandiose, incredible, whimsical, elegant… There is no shortage of adjectives to define this carnival, which is one of the most festive in the world and whose tradition has lasted for centuries.

The history of the Venice Carnival

history of the Venice Carnival

To understand the origin of the Venice Carnival, we must go back to the Middle Ages. At the end of the 11th century, Venice was divided into several districts in which several social classes lived. The carnival was then created to make disappear the barriers existing between the ones and the others. The rich dressed up as the poor and vice versa. Dances, parades, games, and water jousts animated the city for two months, from the end of the year to Mardi Gras.

Such was the success that from the 13th century onwards, the masks began to be worn earlier, as early as October. But the Venetian Republic did not see this freedom and social mix very well. The mask was then prohibited at night at the beginning of the 14th century, and then totally prohibited outside the Carnival period in the 17th century. The restrictions continued afterward with the prohibition of entering a playroom in a mask and the prohibition of dressing up during Lent and religious holidays. Little by little, and after the fall of the Venetian Republic at the end of the 18th century, masks disappeared.

It was not until the end of the 1970s that it became a big event again, the difference being that it was only reserved for the wealthy. It was not until 1980 that it was able to reopen to all and began to gain international popularity.

The must-see events of the Venice Carnival

The Carnival of Venice unveils a program almost identical every year. One week before the official opening date, you can attend the pre-carnival with the Festa Veneziana, a magnificent parade of gondolas on the Cannaregio canal. The atmosphere is magical and joyful and gives locals and vacationers a taste of the festivities that will take place the following weekend.

It is the Festa Delle Marie (Feast of the Marys) that marks the official launch of the Carnival every year. For the occasion, a procession of 12 women, considered the beauty queens of Venice, leaves from the Basilica of San Pietro di Castello to St. Mark’s Square where one of them will be elected Mary of the Year.

Carnival of Venice

The festivities continue the next day with the Flight of the Angel, one of the highlights of the carnival. An angel hanging from a wire rises from the bell tower to a stage set up in St. Mark’s Square. Originally this angel was an acrobat, before being replaced by a dove, then by the Mary of the Year.

During the following days, contests for the most beautiful costume are organized in St. Mark’s Square (usually twice a day). Participation is free, but you must register on-site one hour before. The winner of each contest will participate in the grand finale that will take place during the weekend.

Another festival not to be missed is the Carnival of Burano which takes place over one day. It is also an opportunity to admire the colorful houses of this small island located near Venice.

The last Sunday of the carnival hosts the flight of the Eagle and this time it is a personality who will soar over St. Mark’s Square from the campanile. The name of this person is revealed a few days before. It is also during this day that the winner of the most beautiful costume of the Carnival is elected.

The Carnival of Venice ends two days later with a beautiful closing ceremony during which the Mary of the year officially receives her title which will give her the privilege to fly the angel of the following year.

Another “flight” takes place on this day: the Flight of the Lion with a tapestry covered with a red and gold lion that flies over the heads in St. Mark’s Square.

In addition to this intense program that puts the whole city in turmoil, many balls and private parties where everyone goes in costume are organized in many palaces (Palazzo Nani Bernardo, Palazzo Pisani Moretta) and hotels in Venice (Hotel Danieli 5*, Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal 4*).

Where to find a mask or a costume for the carnival?

costume for carnival of Venice

If it is rather the locals who dress up and perpetuate this Venetian tradition, some tourists also take to the game each year by offering a mask or a wolf in one of the stores of the city. “Benor Maschere Venice”, “Ca ‘del Sol Maschere”, “Ca’ Macana” and “Il Canovaccio” are some of the most famous workshops for their beautiful Venetian masks made on-site by hand.

If you want to play the game to the fullest, you can also dress up as one of the characters from the Commedia dell’arte (Harlequin, Pantaloon, Polichinella, Brighella, Columbine, Scaramouche, Pierrot…). To do this, head to the renowned workshops “Flavia”, Ca del Sol”, “Marega” and “Antonia Sautter”.

Mask or costume, these workshops are so famous that it is recommended to order your costume in advance and have it delivered to your home. If you are there a few days before the beginning of the festivities, you also have more chances to get a mask and why not a costume from these great workshops.

You can also rent a costume for a day for about twenty euros.

The weather during the carnival

In winter, temperatures are rather low in Venice, the thermometer rarely exceeds 10°C, that’s why you will have to be warmly dressed to participate in the Carnival. The snow can also come to Venice at this time.

So pack warm clothes, but also a large umbrella just in case, and comfortable waterproof shoes because during this carnival stay in Venice, you will walk a lot.

Where to stay in Venice during Carnival?

Venice Carnival Italy

Staying close to St. Mark’s Square is essential, especially during the last two weekends of Carnival since this is where most of the entertainment is concentrated. Of course, it depends on your budget, since the closer you get to this emblematic square of Venice, the higher the prices of the hotels, which are even higher during the Carnival period.

If in normal times, the price varies from 60 to 120€ for a night in a well-located hotel in Venice, it doubles or even triples during the festivities. That’s why, to try to reduce the bill, but also to have the choice during this very popular period, it is highly recommended to organize your stay in Venice well in advance.

In addition to the fact that the San Marco district is undoubtedly the best place to stay during Carnival, it is quite possible to choose accommodation a little further away to save money even if it means walking a little or taking the Vaporetto. Cannaregio (quiet and 15 min walk from St. Mark’s Square), Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello (close to the train station) or even further away the Lido (10/15 min by Vaporetto) are excellent areas to stay in Venice and their prices are more reasonable, even if they also tend to go up during Carnival. Again, it’s best to get in early to find a good price and availability.

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